Alpine Butterfly Loop


Uses:


  • This knot is used to form a fixed loop in the middle of a rope. Tied in the bight, it can be made in a rope without access to either of the ends; this is a distinct advantage when working with long climbing ropes. The butterfly loop is an excellent mid-line rigging knot, it is symmetrical and handles multi-directional loading well. In a climbing context it is also useful for traverse lines, some anchors, shortening rope slings, and for isolating damaged sections of rope.

Advantages:


  • Forms stable, secure loop after initial setting.
  • Allows for the knot to be loaded three ways; by each end of the main line and the loop.
  • Relatively easy to untie after loading.
  • It can also be used to isolate a worn section of rope, where the knot is tied such that the worn section is isolated in the loop.

Disadvantages:


  • Difficult to tie one-handed.
  • Difficult to tie around a solid ring or similar object.
  • Improper tying can result in similar looking but inferior "false butterfly" knot.


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